Donyale Luna: Supermodel 2023

Embracing her fabricated identity, Luna heeded McCabe’s counsel and relocated to New York City in 1964. Within a short span, Luna’s allure graced the pages of prestigious fashion publications like Harper’s Bazaar. She swiftly immersed herself in the bohemian circles of the city, rubbing shoulders with avant-garde luminaries. Notably, Luna’s association with figures like Andy Warhol underscored her growing prominence in the arts scene. Despite maintaining contact with her family, Luna was notorious for fabricating or concealing aspects of her personal life.

Venturing into acting, Luna secured roles in films such as “Who Are You, Polly Maggoo?” (1966) and “Fellini Satyricon” (1969), albeit predominantly in supporting capacities. Her cinematic repertoire was modest, with only five credited roles spanning from 1965 to 1972, notably starring in “Salome” (1972). Additionally, Luna made appearances as herself in various productions.

While Luna cultivated a public persona, she guarded many aspects of her life closely, adeptly perpetuating falsehoods about her background. Notably, little is divulged about her brief marriage to an unnamed actor during her New York years, shrouded in secrecy and divorce. Luna’s ability to maintain her exotic facade amidst personal turbulence reflects the era’s lack of digital scrutiny, allowing her to safeguard her illusions.

Close confidante David Croland recalls Luna’s penchant for substance use, including marijuana, hashish, and LSD, attributing it to her quest for escapism. While acknowledging Luna’s drug use, acquaintances contend that she remained unaddicted, though skepticism lingers over the veracity of such claims.

Despite her ascendancy in the fashion realm, Luna encountered racial hurdles pervasive in the 1960s modeling industry. While securing editorial spreads, attaining magazine covers and lucrative endorsements remained elusive due to systemic biases favoring white models. Luna’s disillusionment with racial inequities prompted her departure from the United States, albeit without direct involvement in civil rights activism.

Luna’s trajectory soared upon her relocation to London in 1965, later traversing Paris and Rome. Amidst her European sojourns, Luna forged dalliances with luminaries like Brian Jones and Klaus Kinski, further elevating her celebrity status. Notably, Luna’s cameo as a fire eater’s assistant in “The Rolling Stones Rock and Roll Circus” (1968) attests to her multifaceted allure.

Renowned photographers Richard Avedon and David Bailey emerge as seminal influences in Luna’s supermodel ascent. While Bailey acknowledges the industry’s racial biases, he affirms Luna’s beauty transcended racial categorizations, underscoring her universal appeal.

The prevailing notion is that Luna found more acceptance in Europe than in the United States, although her encounters with racism persisted. A poignant segment in the documentary unveils how racist decisions by Diana Vreeland, the editor-in-chief of American Vogue from 1963 to 1971, impeded Luna’s career prospects. The revelation prompts former supermodel Johnson to tearfully reflect on the collective pain endured by Luna, herself, and countless other Black individuals subjected to racism.

Another emotionally resonant aspect of the documentary centers on Luna’s daughter, Dream Cazzaniga, who shares intimate insights into her mother’s life through Luna’s journal entries and illustrations showcased in the film. Raised by her father’s parents in Italy after Luna’s untimely demise, Cazzaniga candidly recounts her memories of her mother and the challenges of growing up without her presence, navigating a family dynamic where Luna’s death remains a taboo subject.

Luna’s affinity for the moon, reflected in her name meaning “moon” in Spanish and Italian, is poignantly captured in Cazzaniga’s recollection of her nanny’s comforting words, fostering a sense of connection to her mother through the celestial body.

The documentary also delves into Luna’s tumultuous final years in Italy, where she grappled with loneliness and disillusionment, estranged from her former glamorous life as a model. Insights from Luna’s acquaintances, including former supermodel Pat Cleveland, paint a harrowing picture of Luna’s mental unraveling amidst the weight of her fabricated identity and societal pressures. Cleveland’s account underscores Luna’s plea for help, revealing a vulnerable side obscured by her enigmatic facade.

Interviewees provide cultural and historical context to Luna’s experiences, shedding light on pervasive Euro-centric beauty standards that marginalized Black women, perpetuating a damaging narrative of inadequacy. The documentary features commentary from notable figures such as author Constance White, Vogue editor-at-large Hamish Bowles, and fashion designer/activist Aurora James, offering insights into Luna’s enduring legacy and the systemic challenges she faced.

Despite Luna’s struggles with fame and mental health, “Donyale Luna: Supermodel” advocates for a deeper understanding of her legacy beyond superficial measures of success. Luna’s impact transcends magazine covers and monetary gains, leaving an indelible mark on those who knew her intimately. The documentary serves as a poignant tribute to Luna’s complex journey, inviting viewers to reckon with the complexities of fame, identity, and human connection.

HBO premiered “Donyale Luna: Supermodel” on September 13, 2023.